Japan is an amazing mix of old and new, spartan simplicity with decadent luxury. The ancient capitol cities of Kyoto and Nara are perfect examples of the former, with breath-taking thousand year old Buddhist temples and Shinto shrines, giant zen rock gardens, and occasional geisha darting about.

Meanwhile, almost all of Tokyo has been re-built since the war, and the Japanese delight in their creature comforts. Public and private bathrooms have heated toilet seats and warm water bidets, the subways have heated seats, and at home, lights turn on automatically, doors slide open, and people heat their beds before climbing in. Tokyo nightlife and shopping districts put New York or London to shame. However, unlike other world capitols which are ethnically diverse, here almost everyone you see is Japanese.

Culturally, however, Japan is very traditional. Women serve all meals and are expected to quit their careers after getting married, tattoos are unheard of, co-workers are always addressed by their last name, and people are expected to dress "appropriately" for their age.

Hakone is a day-trip from Tokyo and is well worth a visit. Mt. Fuji rises above Lake Ashi, a pristine alpine lake that reminded me a lot of Tahoe. In between, you take cable cars and funiculars through a series of amazing natural wonders, culminating in Hell Valley, an area of natural geysers and sulfur vents, where for seven yeras of extra life you can eat black eggs hard-boiled underground.